The Philosophy of Bartending: Josh Powell, 68 & Boston
April 25, 2016A cocktail is never just a drink. For some it is a work of art; for others it is a means of expression; and, for certain individuals, it often carries a story or a meaning of some sort.
Similarly, The Bartender – just like the cocktail itself – fits a very broad concept. Just as the stories behind the drinks can differ, a bartenders’ journey to the here and now may hold great meaning and endless possibility for exploration.
This feature series focuses on these exact things. Not only does it demonstrate taste profiles, but it delves into the stories of how our now favourite drinks and our most respected bartenders first emerged…
68 & Boston opened last October just seconds from the iconic Soho Square on Greek Street, London. The new venue splits itself into two remarkably different, yet easily coagulated concepts: Upstairs, Boston is a sophisticated cocktail lounge, in which highly skilled bartenders will create your new favourite cocktail in front of your very eyes. Meanwhile the wine bar ‘68’ – located on the entrance level – urges you to expand your horizons, with an amazing list of wines priced the same at just £20.
The new opening has already garnered a great deal of critical acclaim, having even won Thrillist London’s ‘Best New Wine Bar 2015’ award and Design My Night’s Best New Soho Venue. Although this is not in the least surprising when you learn that it was established by three of the leading names in the current cocktail, wine and nightlife industry: Eric Yu of The Breakfast Group, The Social and Opium; Martin Malley – co-owner of Planet of the Grapes; and Luca Cordiglieri – former bar manager at The Dorchester Hotel’s China Tang bar and current President of the UK Bartenders’ Guild. There is a wealth of experience within these four walls but that experience does not end with these three respected men.
For Head Bartender Josh Powell, the role of mixologist was never a direct aim: “I love bartending because I get to be creative”, he explained. “It wasn’t something I had aspired to be because when you’re outside of the industry you don’t realise that these famous bartenders, competitions or cocktail historians exist – I certainly didn’t have any knowledge of the now increasingly popular realm of molecular mixology”. Powell continued: “It’s really only when you step inside that bubble that you see just how widely the influence of bartending reaches”.
Over the last years, the term ‘Bartender’ has widened increasingly. Powell explained: “The industry nowadays is constantly being likened to the food world ten to fifteen years ago, where you had the rise of the celebrity chef on television and in magazines”. He reflected: “We can see a clear parallel now with bartenders and the drinks industry”.
Although the cocktail bartender is not simply responsible for the serving and creation of drinks: “What the majority of people don’t realise is that we, ourselves, set the trends within the food and drink world. We find new, exciting ways for people to step out of their comfort zones and try new things by creating drinks that would otherwise be unavailable”.
At Boston, for example, Josh has created an exceptional menu that brings classics up to date and also introduces such new, exciting way to experience alcohol.
Combining Olmeca Altos Reposado Tequila with Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Tempranillo and Agave syrup, Peace Offering is topped with San Pellegrino Grapefruit soda: “It is one of the most aesthetically pleasing drinks on the list and shows the obvious influence of wine on the menu with its fruity, citrusy palate and its smooth mouthfeel”, Powell stated. “A grapefruit twist adorns the rim whilst the layering of colour is created by freezing a layer of water into the bottle… The cocktail rests on the ice ensuring that the drink stays cold while maintaining a striking presentation”.
Meanwhile, the Squid Ink Martini gives the classic Martini and interesting, strong variation when Tanqueray London Dry Gin is stirred with Tio Pepe Fino En Rama Sherry and Squid Ink mix before being strained into a chilled sherry glass with lemon peel tentacles to garnish: “If you like a really dirty martini then this may be for you. This drink is incredibly strong with the unfiltered sherry brightening the drink and giving a nice citrus element”. Powell continued: “The squid ink adds salinity much like that of olive brine so this drink is definitely not for everyone”. This particular drink comes from Powell’s time working in a tapas bar in his home town of Cardiff: “My style of drinks tend to be quite culinary led and traditional Spanish dishes like Arroz Negra which uses squid ink were a huge influence on me here”.
Elsewhere on the diverse menu, White Port is brought to the forefront in the highly complex Loud Tempests: “Lagavulin 16, as a peated scotch, brings a touch of gentle smoke whilst the real star of the show is the samphire-infused port. The saltiness is a flavour enhancer for the other components of the drink, bringing out rich chocolate and honey notes in the Benedictine and Cinnamon from the Abbot’s bitters”. Powell recalled: “This drink is a twist on a Bobby Burns replacing sweet vermouth with the infused port instead and the name comes from a line in one of Robert Burns’ poems”.
As probably the most popular drink on the list, Rose Tinted takes the consumer down a far more refreshing, citrus-led route: “25ml of Bombay Sapphire Gin, 15ml of Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur, 15ml of St. Germain Elderflower liqueur, 15ml of Lemon Juice and 3 dashes of Peychaud’s bitters are shaken hard before being strained into highball and topped with Prosecco”. He continued: “This drink is a real star for Spring and is garnished with an edible flower to serve”.
Not only does bartender take advantage of seasonal trends to a large extent, but they may also predict them. This Spring/Summer, for instance, Powell envisages that: “The drinks world is leaning more towards fresh, clean flavours using lots of culinary influences to achieve great balance in cocktails”. He continued: “I think Pisco and Grappa are going to see some inventive new ways to be served this year and it should be quite an exciting season to see bartenders creating new cocktail flavours”.
For individuals like Powell, the role of bartender is far more than an outlet for creativity. For many, the job enriches their day and expands their passion for people: “Perhaps one of the most important things for me is seeing people smile as a result of something I’ve created… Hospitality is a huge part of what we as bartenders, waiters, sommeliers or hosts do”. He concluded: “Perhaps it is so rewarding because the gratification is almost instant… Watching someone’s eyes light up after trying one of your creations is something I’ll never get over and something that fills me with warmth whenever I experience it”.
The family-minded ethos of the bartending community extends such feelings of appreciation even further: “Some of the people that I admire most are not ‘famous’ in the ordinary sense of the word but, rather, they are my friends and contemporaries within the industry. I feel like right now we are in a very exciting time and I am able to watch the incredible things that everybody is doing via social media. It is incredibly inspiring seeing the people from back home in Cardiff winning competitions and seeing friends all over the world opening new bars or being given recognition and awards for the ways that they are evolving the industry”.
For many like Powell, bartending is not only a career but, rather, a way of life. It is true that you really get out what you put in and, for this reason, the personal reward and the accompanying feelings of pride are elements that will continue to draw new people to these roles and change opinions of the industry as a whole.